Madeira

The Portuguese island of Madeira produces a classic and unique style of fortified wine. The island lies some 560 kms from Lisbon. It was discovered in 1418 by Joao Goncalves Zarco who was then the captain in the fleet of the Henry the navigator. The island was covered in trees and he named the place Madeira, meaning wood or timber, before settling the tree was set on fire, the trees burned for seven years, enriching the soil making it ideal for the cultivation of Vine. By the end of the fifteenth century, the wines from Madeira were being exported to England and other European countries including France.

The grapes are grown near the coast on the steep terraced slopes. The grapes are trodden by the foot and the juice is transported down the precipitous hillsides in goat skin container to the central wineries at Funchal.

Process:

Fermentation: The drier Madeira- Sercial and Verdelho – are vinified as for Sherry. The sweet Bual and the Malmsey are are made in the fashion of Port. The fermentation are arrested by the addition of grape spirit or by a rectified, flavorless spirit made from the sugarcane ( rum ). This meas some of the grape sugar remains unfermented and the natural sweetness is preserved.

The Estufa system: It was noticed in the sixteenth century that casks of Madeira when used as ballast on ships going to and from the East Indies had improved considerably in flavor on their return, crossing over the equator twice on the long sea journey going in and out of the tropics imparted the cooked flavor of the wine. In the year 1800 the estufa system was introduced  known as the ustufagem. An estufa is heated chamber or room, containing tank, with a capacity of 40,000 liters. When filled with wine, the tanks are slowly heated, never increasing by more than 5˚ per day. As the temperature increases the wine is baked, over a month, up to temperature of 45 - 50˚. It is held at this heat for a minimum of three months. Some shippers gauge their maximum temperature lower and keep the wine in the estufa longer – up to six months. Another month is then taken to turn the heat down in the same slow, gradual manner. A thermometer with the governmental seal, is attached to each estufa. If the estufa is heated beyond the certain permitted temperature the seal breaks and they cannot e sold as Madeira. The wines are given a light fortification before going in to the estufa system and a more substantial one when it comes out. Madeira is eventually bottled at an alcoholic strength of 21% before that it will be matured through the solera system and rested before sale.

Styles of Madeira:

Sercial: Comparatively dry with an amber brightness, Sercial have a nutty flavor and a crisp, piquant after taste. Served chilled as an aperitif.

Verdelho: It is a beautiful, golden, versatile wine, medium sweet to taste but with a dry finish. It can be drunk as an aperitif with the soup or cake, or enjoyed on its own.

Bual: Richer, smoother, deeper and sweeter than verdelho. Bual has slightly honeyed flavors. It is an ideal for the dessert wine.

Malmsey: This is most renowned of all the Madeiras. It is deep – brown, luscious, fat, dessert wine.

Rainwater: A blend of the lighter Madeiras – Sercial and Verdelho – rainwater gets its name from the time when the casks of Madeira were accidentally diluted with the rainwater.

Vintage Madeira: These are rare but solera dated Madeira’s are readily available. These are not vintage Madeira’s. The date on the label indicates when the solera was first introduced.

Serving Madeira’s:

Madeira are served in a dock glass or in the copita or tulip glass.

Madeira shippers:

Blandy, Cossart Gordan, Leacock, Lomelino, Rutherford and Miles